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vstar 650 will not rev, fuel or electrical?

11K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  demarca2002  
#1 ·
Hello, I am new to these forums and new to motorcycles. I am not new to wrenching or electrical though.
I decided to post this thread instead of hijacking another which I started to do already, although he has some similar sounding issues with his bike.
I recently purchased a 2000 vstar 650 that has sat since 2005. It only has 3000 miles on it. When i purchased it I knew the carbs would be gummed up.
When I got it it would only idle with the choke pulled all the way out, and the second I touched the throttle it would die. Searching these forums I learned that was a carb issue.
I tore into the carbs about 4 times now, each time a little deeper.
I am about certain that all the passage ways are clear in the carbs. I boiled them in lemon juice for an hour and cleaned them with carb cleaner as well as seafoam. I removed all rubber parts and cleaned those in seafoam (they never got boiled or carb cleaner on em). The jets were completely gummed up originally, and now i can blow through them with my mouth. The carb cleaner sprays through each passage way quite well, and the rubber parts seem soft and are in tact.
It will idle without the choke pulled out now, and it will even rev a little if I let it warm up for 5 minutes. I can drive it in first gear to about 20mph, second gear about 22mph. If I dont ease on the throttle to allow it to catch up it will bog down. I only get about 1/4 throttle before it bogs out, and to do that I have to pull it slow.
I have new gas in it, I tried both 87 and 92 octane. I also eliminated the fuel tank by having the fuel pump suck gas out of a clean bottle.
I removed the air filter (it was perfectly clean) and installed new plugs and gaped them to .028. The existing plugs looked fine.
I checked compression of both cylinders, both are around 120psi although the rear cylinder creeps up a tad slower than the front cylinder to that number. On the cranks the rear jumps to 60, 90, 120 and the front jumps to 80,100,130ish. (I think that is ok right?)
The battery is new and is at about 13.5v when the bike is running. I connected a 10A charger to it to push it to 14v while running and still no change.
If I pull the choke out the bike will rev a little higher but still bogs down with more than 1/4 throttle. Also when I do this it tends to stay revved longer even when I release the throttle.
I squirted gas directly down the throats of the carbs while it is running and I can get it to rev up a lot higher, which makes me believe it is still carb related.
The fuel pump seams to move fuel from one container to another quite well, and when I put my finger over the outlet it builds a little bit of pressure. (maybe 1 psi?)
I am at a loss. I have been through the carbs so many times I can rebuild them with my eyes closed. I dont see a single thing wrong with them but it appears to be fuel related.
The pilot jet is .20 and the main had a 6 or 9 on it i believe. When I look down the main jets hole it appears that it is smaller than the pilots hole.
When I look down the throat of the carbs I can see fuel coming out of the needle valve area but it doesn't appear to be misting, but I am not sure if it is supposed to be.
I know this is a lot of information, especially from a new comer. I am hoping that the experience from you guys here will lead me to a solution. I promise to post the solution when I find it. I really need some input on what to do, where to check, etc. Thanks
Joe
 
#3 ·
I tested the TPS sensor, 5.22k ohm from side to side. 4.2k ohm when full open, 640 ohm when throttle is fully closed. the resistance glides smoothly on the multimeter.

Originally it was 750 ohm when the throttle was closed, but the book says it should be between .13 to .15 X 4.2k ohm, so i adjusted it down., I didnt see any change when I adjusted it. When I unplug it the check engine light comes on and goes back off when I plug it back in.
Also, I did the water and starting fluid test. I sprayed down the intake manifold ports while bike was idling. I saw no noticeable change in idle.

I did look down the carbs again today and when I crank it over with the throttle wide open I see tons of gas spurting out of the 3 small holes near the bottom of the carb.

The same things happens when the bike is idling and I crank on the throttle, gas squirts liberally in the carbs and the engine dies. However if I use the squirt bottle of gas and squirt gas down the carb throats I can rip on the throttle. I know I am pouring quite a bit of fuel down the throats when I do this. Makes me wonder if I am putting so much gas down the carbs that if the ignition timing was off there is enough fuel to burn to make up the difference.
I pulled the plugs and when I crank it over I see bright blue spark.

I would use a timing light to test the ignition timing but the book is vague on this. I opened the timing port on the left side of the bike and i get dusted with oil and air spurting out while the engine is running. The book says to use this to port to line up the timing marks with the light. They didnt mention to wear goggles. I am hoping that this is normal and oil is supposed to sputter out of this hole.
At this rate I am going to either solve this soon or pull my hair out. Good thing I have a long 3 day labor day weekend and Corona on hand.
Winning
 
#4 ·
well...i could list all the potential fixes that didnt work for me...but then you might be on the verge of parking the bike on the middle of the expressway to watch it burn....keep us updated if you fix it and i will do the same!
 
#5 ·
I started reading on another forum and found someone with a similiar issue. I didnt read enough through it to see if the suggestion fixed his problem but by reading it I realized I didnt clean out EVERY port on my carb. The PMS screw has a brass cover over it and I figured I would leave it alone. I didnt think to remove the cover and clean out the needle valve.
After I pulled the brass plug off I found that the rear PMS screw was completly tight and turned in all the way, and the front was only 1 turn out. It may have been because the crud in it or because the O ring swelled. I pulled out both PMS screws which was actually hard to do because I needed a pair of tweezers to fish them out of the holes, then I lost the spring behind it only to have to locate it deep within the bikes crevices with my bore-scope.
After squirting carb cleaner in the PMS holes I reinserted the needle valves and adjusted them about 8 turns out. I know the book says 2.5 but I figured Id go big for starters.
It ran a lot better and gave me a little more throttle response, then I put the airbox cover on and covered half of it with my hand and it revved like a champ.
Turns out it needed some resistance to the intake as well. THat could have been half my problem to begin with because I was always testing it in my driveway with no intake cover over the carbs.
I just ran it up and down the block. First 14 throttle response is good, then from 3/4 to max it rips as well. I will have to dial in the carbs, re-sync, and adjust the PMS screw. Might have a professional do that since I am a newbie. Now to get a license and title it in my name.
It runs!
Very happy.